There has been a lot of talk this past week about the new vegetable “kitchen” garden planted by the Obamas on the White House grounds. What got people talking is not so much the fact that the Obamas started the garden. In and of itself the garden is not too important, at least not to anyone other than the Obamas.
What did get people talking was a rather laughable letter sent to the Obamas by the Mid American CropLife Association. In it, the Association took issue with the label “organic” as applied to the garden. The Association defended “conventionally” grown food as being “wholesome and flavorful yet more economical,” all the while being sustainable.
But the truth is that many conventional food production practices harm the environment, increase farm consolidation (thereby decreasing small farm ownership and regionality of food source), and rely on artificially low costs with the help of government subsidies.
The Association listed several methods that they argued are sustainable farming practices, all the while attempting to paint industrial food production techniques as being environmentally sustainable. But this misses the point. People who advocate the benefits of organic and alternative farming welcome efforts by industrial agriculture to adopt farming methods that decrease negative impacts on the environment. The truth of the matter is that industrial food production contributes to pollution of water bodies, soil, groundwater systems, and the air. And the sustained practices that the Association alleges are in use by farmers are being employed on an extremely small amount of farmland in the United States. For example, the letter asserts that “reduced tillage practices” are being employed on 72 million acres. Yet, according to the most recent agricultural census data from the U.S. Census Bureau, there are over 992 million acres of farmland in America.
The letter also employs the common image of the ideal small American farm that has been purposely and disingenuously raised by industrial agriculture producers and their defenders for years—the false idea that America’s food supply is produced by small family farmers who work their own land from sun up to sun down. This is just false, and the industrial food producers know it. In fact, they rely on this pastoral image pervasive in the collective American conscious to continue to consolidate their ownership of American food production, to secure monetarily beneficial government subsidies, and to fight moves toward greater environmental sustainability. The truth, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, is that 70% of the American food supply is produced by 6% of the total farms in the nation. The truth is that small farms—the basis of that idyllic American image—have been sold to large agribusiness corporations and consolidated into behemoth operations.
By arguing that industrial food production is more economical, the Association seems to be trading on the common misperception that organic food must always be more expensive than “regular” food. This is the “whole paycheck” mentality. It’s not necessarily the fact that the food is produced organically that causes it to be more expensive in stores. It’s a combination of marketing organic as an up-scale, yuppy commodity, the ability of grocers to trade on the yuppified idea of organic to increase their prices, and industrial agriculture’s stranglehold on the market and on American food policy.
In the end, the power of the Obamas’ new organic kitchen garden is its statement. By planting a garden on the White House lawn and calling it organic, consciously or not the Obamas have demonstrated the importance of questioning where our food comes from. That is an important first step in fundamentally altering our nation’s food policy toward sustainability.
When I first heard about the new garden on the White House grounds, I was pleased, but I didn’t think it would matter too much. But, the letter from the Mid American CropLife Association changed my mind. If they are worried enough about the impact of this small garden, then I think that bodes well for the future of sustainable, local, economical food in America.
They say every cloud has a silver lining.
